Installing a T5 manual transmission in a classic 65 mustang

Here is the popular T5 transmission installation on a 6 cylinder mustang. This is a great upgrade for the car and is so much better then the old 2.77 3spd. Here is a list of parts needed to install on an early bellhousing for the 6 cylinders. These are teh bellhousings found on the 6 cylinders until 66. Some 1965 cars have the older style. To figure out what you have, go here: www.inlinepages.com. The parts requirements are basically the same, only difference being the flywheel and clutch disc and adaptor plate.

Parts:
1) T5 transmission (duh)
2) Slip-yoke for the T5 transmission. You usually need to get one from one of the mustang parts outlets. The Fox body mustangs that the T5 came out of have a different size driveshaft yoke that is too big. Some driveshaft shops have "frankenstein" u-joints that will mate to this larger slip yoke, so talk to them, it can save you some money.
3) Adaptor plate. The T5 input shaft is about 1" longer then the older transmissions. You can either get a new late-model bellhousing, or get an adaptor plate. Adaptor plate is the easiest way to go. Be sure to get one that matches you bellhousing.
4) Driveshaft modifications: Once the transmission is in place, you'll need to measure the required length of your driveshaft. Most classic mustangs will require the driveshaft be shortened by an inch or so. But this is by no means standard. YOU NEED TO MEASURE YOUR APPLICATION. I did not need to shorten my driveshaft as the previous owner had it shortened for some reason. The way to measure is once the transmission is on, put the slip yoke in the rear of the transmission. Pull it out so there is a 1" gap between the yoke and tailshaft. Then measure from center of the slip yoke to the center of the rear u-bolt yoke.
5) Flywheel. It's a good idea to get your flywheel resurfaced.
6) Clutch Disc. Get a clutch disc that has the same pattern as your transmission, but will fit on your flywheel. For the early bellhousing cars with the 8.5" recessed fly wheel, you'll need the clutch disc from a 4 cylinder mustang from the late 1980s.
7) New Pilot bearing. The old one is the wrong size.

Tools:

1) Good set of sockets

2) Allen wrench

3) Jack stands

4) A friend!!!

These directions show how to install at T5 as if the engine were still in the car. Installing the T5 is much easier doing to the engine while both are out of the car. Here, fellow VMFer Randy (aka Midlife).

Due to some clutch issues, the following procedure was developed because we didn't want to pull the engine to replace the clutch. Al (a FSPer and designer of my T5 adaptor plate) helped (did most of I should say) the install while I snapped pictures.
1) Install the adaptor plate on the bellhousing. Easier to do if the bellhousing is removed from the car. It is not difficult to do with the bellhousing in the car.

2) You need to replace the pilot bushing (or bearing). So be sure to remove the old one and replace with one for the T5 transmission you are using. Next, install the fly wheel.

If you look you see the two 2x4s beside the engine. You have to remember that the transmission is part of what holds the engine in place. If you remove the transmission and do not put some support on the rear of the engine, you are going to put lots of stress on the motor mounts, and you can end up bending them. We just put 2 2x4s at the rear of the engine and bracing against the lip of the oil pan.
2) Place the proper clutch disc and use a clutch alignment tool. For an early model 6 cylinder flywheel (8.5" recessed fly wheel), you'll need a clutch disc for a 89 4 cylinder T5. It is 8.5" and will fit inside the recessed flywheel of the early bellhousing.

3) Put the pressure plate on, using clutch alignment tool, and bolt the pressure plate into place. Be sure to use a new pressure plate, and get one for your year flywheel that you are using. The flywheel needs to match the pressure plate, the clutch disc matchs the transmission.

 

4) Re-install the bellhousing with the adaptor plate on.

5) Put T5 transmission to place. This is where you reall need a friend. It can be very difficult to wiggle the T5 into plate in the clutch disc and the pilot bearing while trying to hold it up. It is significantly heavier then the old 2.77 3spd that was in there.

It is a really tight fit, but the T5 will fit without tunnel housing modifications.

 

6) Put the crossmember in place. This when you'll really realize the T5 is a tight fit. Bolt the crossmember to the transmission via the transmission mount. Easiest way to got enough room for the crossmember to fit to the frame is to place a hyrdaulic jack on the rear of the transmisison (where the 3 holes are on the back). The reason it can be difficult getting it up high enough without a jack is that you are also lifting the engine to help line the transmission up. Slowly jack up the rear of the transmission until the bolt holes of the T5 crossmember line up with the old holes in the frame.
7) Slide the tailshaft into the rear of the transmission. I found the easiest way to do this is by removing the driveshaft (which you'll need to do anyways, since it will more then likely need to be shortened) and put the tailshaft and driveshaft into the rear of the transmission. Then bolt the rear of the driveshaft onto the rear differential.

 

8) Now re-install the parking brake on the provided brackets on the T5 crossmember.

 

Now you are all set.
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